I have thoughts on this whole “books are fast fashion” conversation. But before I begin, let me show you the conversation:
Jessica Karl writes, “We’re witnessing in real time how corners of the publishing industry have become akin to fast fashion: pushing out a steady stream of content because they know readers, influenced by social media reviews, will keep buying despite any glaring ethical concerns.”
An example of an ethical concern Karl presents is that author Rebecca Yarros incorrectly pronounced several Gaelic words from her new book, Iron Flame, at an in-person event. Karl expresses that this would be a huge problem for publishers if they didn’t already know that this book was getting over a billion views on TikTok. Iron Flame sold out on Amazon in under 12 hours.
There are hundreds of reddit discussions about, “books as fast fashion” as well. What exactly is “fast fashion” and why are we applying the term to books? I want to show you:
“More and more, conscientious consumers are embracing clothing resale sites like Poshmark and Depop — websites that specialize in helping users buy and sell used clothing —to avoid primary fast fashion consumption entirely.”
Now let’s apply this to books because TikTok and Bookstagram generate problematic book-buying behaviors. Book influencers center brand new releases, book scarcity, FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out) on limited special editions with sprayed edges, and spending a lot of money on massive book hauls.
So I can see why people are saying books are like fast fashion but I think there are ways serious readers and book collectors can squash the comparison.
“Buy only what you need.” Lately, I have been using the “try it before you buy it” method of reading a book digitally before I buy a physical copy for my library.
“Recycle or Repurpose” doesn’t *really* apply to books because I don’t think people throw books in the trash. But it is a helpful reminder that we can go through our libraries and “destash” books that we no longer want. We can put them in Little Free Libraries, donate them to library sales or thrift stores, or sell them at Half Price Books, Pango, eBay, or Etsy.
“Treat garments as long-term investments” I like this one. It goes hand in hand with number one in terms of being a book collector, a curator of your library that reflects your reader’s heart, and not a book hoarder—just accumulating books.
“Choose natural” doesn’t apply so I will suggest that our tastes naturally change over time. My reading preferences have evolved. My library and the books I choose to fill it with will change as my tastes change. If I read books with purpose, passion, and intention, I can slowly transition out what doesn’t suit me anymore and replace it with that which does. Mindful book-buying looks sustainable and not frenzied. Sometimes we have to un-influence ourselves—train ourselves not to see what everyone else is buying and feel like we have to have that too.
“Buy second-hand” I love this one. If people are destashing their hoard, that means secondhand shops, thrift stores, and used bookstores are great resources for curating your library and finding books you have already read and love. This will cut down on toxic capitalist consumerism. I’m thinking of that recent Stanley Cup madness
“Host a swap” I think more people should do this! I’m thinking of hosting a big book swap someday. People can bring their books and trade or just giveaway books they don’t want so they choose books they do want from others. “One person’s trash is another person’s treasure.”
“Do your research” before just buying the latest, buzziest books because an influencer was going bananas over it, do your research. Follow other readers who maybe don’t monetize on social media or rep publishers but their taste in books aligns with your own. Subscribe to book boxes where the owners are massive fans of the genre and pick books they have researched to bring you the very best possible books in the genre, like NIGHT WORMS *wink* we do that leg work for you.
“Rent clothing” USE YOUR LIBRARY! Rent the books before you BUY the books. I have been doing this more and more over the years and I will never stop recommending it. Apps like LIBBY | HOOPLA | KANOPY make it easy to rent everything from audiobooks, eBooks, physical books, music, movies, and TV shows. If your library doesn’t have it, request it.
Reading books is wholesome.
It’s not a competition.
Curate your library ethically, sustainably, and personally. Allow it to be a reflection of you as a reader right now at this moment.
xx
This is why I try to curate my collection well. If people are buying books just to own books (I have been guilty of this), there's definitely a problem there. That would be a problem in any product category. But being a reader and owning a large collection of books you love isn't really an issue.
I've been circling around this problem for a while, but I don't think I would've hit upon fast fashion. Perfect articulation of the problem with this sort of stuff.